Digital Exposed Seminar

Every so often a label comes along that defies all the design norms to break the mundane moulds and fashion something entirely new. brkich (pronounced ‘bur-kitch’)
is a Melbourne based, Australian fashion label with a difference that seeks to fulfill all the above. Designer Belinda Crossley set out to ensure a strong focus on hand screen-printed textiles, and original textile prints are the cornerstone of brkich design, both instantly striking and identifiable to the label’s aesthetic.

Belinda designs fabric specific to each collection so that brkich maintains a high level of integrity in design and production. Collections are produced locally in order to maintain and supervise ethical practice, quality control and to support Melbourne’s local industry. These key factors influenced the judges at Fashion Exposed to award Brkich the winner of the DEBUT competition in Sydney.

Fashion Exposed Blog had a chat with Belinda to discuss the creation of her DEBUT collection and its `exploration of colour, texture and form’; why she chooses to hand screen print her own textiles; and on winning the DEBUT competition.

How did you get your start in fashion design? Has fashion always been a constant thread in your life?

I have always had a strong interest in the art and design field. I grew up in rural Gippsland, in an old butter factory which my mother converted to an art gallery, needless to say I grew up in a very creative environment. My focus gradually shifted from fine arts to decorative arts; namely textiles. I studied Textile Design at RMIT, the years during and after my study is when I really developed my passion for fashion and textiles. I love that fashion is at once a necessary part of everyday life and a creative expression or even indulgence.

You debut collection is `an exploration of colour, texture and form’ can you explain where you sourced the inspiration for this theme? And why you were drawn to this style?

I like to keep things relatively simple. I designed the garments to have simple shapes and clean lines, this allows the fabrics to really be the focus of each piece. I love working with contrasting colors and textures and exploring how all of this elements relate to one another.

Not only did you design each of the pieces, you also hand screen printed the textiles – why is this artistic approach so essential to the label? And can you explain the process of your design?

My prints are the keystone to my collection, instantly striking and identifiable. Hand screen printed textiles are such a wonderful thing, they give you such freedom when designing the look of your work. My design process is really quite organic. It can begin with a print idea, a garment silhouette or an interesting colour combination or an amalgamation of all these things. I do a lot of sampling with my fabrics, the design development continues through this hands on approach.

It seems as though there is a very holistic approach to your design, fabrics and fits designed simultaneously with each other in mind – why?

This is simply the way that I naturally work. There would not be one without the other, textile designs are engineered specifically for the garments in question and vice versa.

You crafted the pieces from natural fibres and fabrics such as linen, cotton and silk, why did you choose these for your first collection?
Because they are beautiful to work with and beautiful to wear. I chose these fabrics as they are soft and light, but still maintain a sense of structure.

How did it feel to be announced as the winner of the Debut competition at Fashion Exposed, Sydney? Did you think you were in with a winning chance?

It felt great, I was honestly a bit overwhelmed, I really didn’t have any expectations of the event. It is a lovely feeling to have your hard work and passion acknowledged, It gives you an indication that you are on the right track.

What are your thoughts on the other Debut finalists?

I was really impressed, a few of the finalist were already known to me and a few were completely new faces. Everyone involved with debut really had their own unique style, from the modern geometrics of Neo Dia to the nostalgic whimsy of Ginny and Jude Designs. I will definitely keep in touch with friends made within the other finalists. It was great to compare notes and swap experiences!

Have you already begun work on the next collection? If so can you reveal anything about it, inspiration or theme?

Only in the very early conceptual stages. I would really like to explore some different techniques in addition to my handprinting, dyeing, digital printing etc. There is a lot to play with.

What do you hope for Brkich in 2012?
I will continue to grow and explore my brand, meet new people, learn new things, make beautiful pieces!

Anything else you would like to add?

Thanks, Its been fun.

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